ivan-drazic (@ivan-drazic)
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The Trip to Bulgaria I Found on an Old Camera
Lost photographs from a 2007 trip to Bulgaria bring back Plovdiv, Bachkovo, a global conference and a suitcase misrouted to Tirana. In 2026, while looking for photographs for a completely different...
Amsterdam 20 Years Later — It Wasn’t Quite Where I Left It
Amsterdam 20 Years Later: Same Tracks, Tired Windows, Stronger Weed — and the Suspicion That the Party Moved to Berlin In 2004, Amsterdam ended for me with a daytime train to Cologne. Twenty years ...
In Search of My Best Prague Photograph
Fifteen stops, one phone, years of Prague experience — let the hunt for the best Prague photograph begin. I have been to Prague enough times for another round of classic sightseeing to make very li...
I Picked the Wrong Day for Karlovy Vary
Foul-tasting hot water with laxative ambitions, rapidly declining sightseeing standards and two detours from Karlovy Vary — on the day Czechia set its all-time temperature record. By the time I fin...
The Morocco I Entered Through Meknes
I was staying in Fes, but Meknes gave me my first medina — and the first lesson that Morocco is rarely as simple as the guidebook version. My first serious day of sightseeing in Morocco did not beg...
Twenty Minutes in Moulay Idriss - Morocco’s Holy Town
My driver gave me twenty minutes for Moulay Idriss. Just enough time to enter the medina, trust a boy I had never seen before, climb almost above the town - and somehow see far more than twenty min...
First Time in China: What Europe Hadn’t Prepared Me For
Before my first time in China, I worried about cultural differences. Instead, I found QR-code payments, a stubborn firewall, barely any English, robots using lifts — and a system that somehow becam...
Checking In, Checking Back: Ten Years, Twelve Istanbul Hotels - Part One
Four Istanbul hotels: a spectacular suite, an efficient stopover, exceptional hospitality and a cocktail that became a minor engineering project. Choosing between Istanbul hotels can easily become ...
I Drove to Pamukkale at 3 A.M. — and the Best Part Was the Fruit
I came to Turkey for a business meeting in Ankara. A few days of annual leave turned the journey into a solo detour through İzmir and Pamukkale, one reluctantly abandoned plan for Ephesus, an excep...
Fes — I Walked Through a Gate and Left the 21st Century Behind
Travelling to Fes can easily feel like travelling into the past. Pass through one of the monumental gates of its medina and the first question is almost inevitable: are we really still in the twent...
The Future Came with Slippers
> My first trip to China had all the technology I expected. The surprise was how comfortable they had made it. Shanghai had already given me a very different kind of speed: 300 kilometres per hour ...
Helsinki Between Night and Snow
> One winter evening, one quiet morning and a ferry waiting at the end Helsinki was never meant to be the main event. The journey had already taken me north to Lapland and then south to Tampere for...
Hangzhou Was the China I Had Come to See
> I arrived knowing almost nothing about Hangzhou. Between water lilies, pagodas, Buddhist temples and old streets, I found the China I had imagined — and discovered that reality was even more capt...
The Silk I Didn’t Know I Came For
> I arrived in Hangzhou knowing almost nothing about its most famous craft. By the time I left, silk had followed me from museums and markets all the way into my suitcase. The old man and I had no ...
Where the Vatican Goes to Hide
> From Castel Gandolfo’s Private Avenues to the Gardens Behind St Peter’s For years, the Vatican existed in my mind as an extension of Rome: St Peter’s Square, the basilica and the long route throu...